Lima, Peru

Protesters from across Peru gathered on January 19, 2023 in Lima, the nation’s capital. The majority of protesters came from indigenous communities. People came to Lima by bus and some walked on foot from remote towns in the Andes. They gathered to protest the government.

The last president was the first president who was ethnically indigenous. He was ousted after a short tenure and is currently in jail.

Many protesters want:

the current president to resign
a new constitution
congress to be reformed
education for their communities

Protests addressing the same issues have occurred throughout the country for years. Many civilians have died in clashes with the police. The government was quick to call the protesters “terrorists.” Yet, protesters claim police brutality. They also claim the government is corrupt. More than half of Peruvians do not have access to enough food. However, they see their nation’s leaders living decadent lives in the elite, seaside neighborhood or Miraflores. Protests were supposed to end at the President’s residence in Miraflores. However, police presence was strong and demonstrations couldn’t get through. The Supreme Court building is where many protesters congregated.

Earlier in the week

I had arrived in Lima on the 14th. I was staying across the street from the Supreme Court building. Once I checked into the hotel, I started noticing the sound of the horns. You could hear music playing, horns honking, and chants over bullhorns with people shouting back a response but you couldn’t see them yet.

Several riot police stood guard in front of the Supreme Court.

Within a few hours, I saw a small group of protesters walk down the street. The few police blocked the road in front of them - and the protesters continued in another direction. It was peaceful.

Protests continued like this for a few days.

Jan 19th

The morning of the 19th started out with protesters marching while honking horns and chanting. Activity settled down during the hottest part of the day and protesters gathered in local parks to rest and eat. Police made their presence known. Thousands of officers in riot gear protected government buildings. A recent order was released giving Peruvian Military police power. I had not seen any violence from protesters and the police stood stoic only moving the blockade roads to stop traffic or protesters.

I walked around the park near my hotel (across the street from the Supreme Court). No authorities were present, only protesters. They were resting. Banners were everywhere introducing indigenous groups and explaining where they were from. Non-protesters walking through voiced support. People (including non-protesters) approached me to say that the cause was necessary and good.

The pain at that park was palpable. Protesters believe in their cause, and some were ready to die for it.

People draped themselves in flags that mostly translated to, “Peru I love you!” or, “Peru, it’s because I love you I defend you.” Some flew flags that called for a new constitution. People also wore headbands expressing similar sentiments. Many people also wore helmets anticipating clashes with the police.

Small groups gathered. Many people performed ethnic dance and music from their cultures. In certain areas of the park, culture was celebrated. People were proud share. Members of other communities gathered and appreciated the songs.

Other parts of the park had speakers on bullhorns trying to galvanize people for the day ahead. Some angrily shouted about the government.

There was also a long line in the middle of the park. Two women were cooking for everyone and people across communities lined up for a plate. Payment was appreciated, but not necessary. As protesters assembled ready to march, journalists in bulletproof vests marked with “Press.”

One main speaker took to the center of the park with a bullhorn. Most people started to congregate around him. There was a powerful message and people cheered frequently while raising their firsts. It was time to assemble on the street.

Marching

I walked with the protesters for a bit. Every community had a banner informing onlookers of who they were and where they were from. Sometimes the banners outlined the struggles of that particular community.

Many of these groups had several people dressed in traditional costume of that community. Some people wore ceremonial garb.

After a block or two, a civilian medic ran to help a protester up ahead. A minute later, military helicopters came and started intimidating the protesters.

Evening

Protests continued throughout the day. I didn’t see any violence toward police (and the police were everywhere). You could tell the government was gearing up for an assault. They bused in thousands of riot police in coaches. Police lined the streets and eventually barricaded almost every road around the square near the Supreme Court.

The police started to mobilize when thousands of soldiers arrived by coaches and dozens of pick up trucks. Military flooded into the square taking the positions of some of the police lining the streets.

Police laser sight as they clear protesters

We had been hearing tear gas shot in the distance for hours but it hadn’t reached us yet.

Police got into formation. They created a wall of shields and rushed the protesters. Tear gas started instantly being shot at protesters sitting in the square or simply standing in the street. Guns with green laser sights emerged in front of the police wall. Green lasers danced all around the square. One even crossed my chest.

At this point of the night, most protesters were resting and eating in the square. I didn’t hear any taunts toward the police and I saw zero violence toward them. The police fired hundreds of canisters at protesters. Some shots were almost point blank. I saw police shoot canisters of tear gas at individual protesters. They would target one person who was usually sitting on the grass or standing on the sidewalk. One time I saw a protester try to kick a canister back at the officer who fired it at him. That was the extent of violence toward the police I witnessed. The [protected] officer kicked it back, and the protester ran.

Clearing the square took almost an hour. A historic government building engulfed in flame was the backdrop of this scene.

After the square was clear tanks came and parked in the middle of the street. They sat there for hours.

Very slowly, fire trucks started responding to the fire. They came in all throughout the night. When I woke up, the fire was out but it was actively smoking. I don’t believe the government officially commented on the cause of the fire.

I had booked a flight to Santiago a few days prior to the 19th. I somewhat reluctantly left the next morning.

I returned to Lima after a couple weeks of traveling in the south of the continent. There were no horns. I saw no flags. No protesters were in sight. There was a heavier police and military presence then when I had arrived a couple weeks before. That was obvious from the amount of soldiers guarding the airport.

The Supreme Court building still had some riot police guarding it. Things felt different. Police in military-like-fatigues lined certain streets and parks. Given the amount of men staring at their phones all night, it’s pretty clear their presence is to intimidate and suppress protests.